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The New 'F' Word

4:00 PM, Feb 16, 2012 • By VICTORINO MATUS
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Last week, food writer Michael Ruhlman had a glorious screed on his blog about the war against fat:

I know what it was that set me off today. A random article, out of the blue, I shouldn’t even have read it. It referred to great food cooked with rendered fat as “early-grave food heaven.” Why do people say stupid things like this?

Because the media bombards us with the simplistic message that Fat Is Bad For You, and it pisses me off.

It gets even better.He goes on,

Because it’s not true.  Fat is good for you.  Fat is good for your body.  I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Fat doesn’t make you fat, EATING TOO MUCH MAKES YOU FAT! Eating every morsel of your mile high Cheesecake Factory plate is what makes you fat.  Eating a whole bag of Doritos is what makes you fat.  Eating when you’re not hungry makes you fat!

To argue that fat is bad for you is akin to arguing that homemade chocolate chip cookies or apple pie is bad for you. Is ice cream bad for you? Of course not. Putting away a couple of pints of Rocky Road every night, that probably is. Obviously too much ice cream and too much fat is bad for you.  If all you ate was lettuce, lettuce would be bad for you.

When was last time you heard a nutritionist warning you about the dangers of lettuce? Well, I’m here to make you wise. If lettuce is the only thing you eat, you will get sick, you’re going to have serious health issues. It can lead to dangerous malnutrition, grave weight loss, and in women, infertility....

It's really worth reading in its entirety.

Ruhlman, the author of such terrific books as The Making of a Chef, Ratio, and, most recently, Ruhlman's Twenty, followed up this blog item with a recipe for really good fried chicken.

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